Not long ago Wondlan released a telescoping Carbon Fiber Video Camera Stabilizer, and now Flycam's caught on to the design. Although they look similar from afar they are indeed much different, and it appears that Wondlan might be the better build quality. From what I noticed though, the Wondlan has a shorter counterweight sled which could lead to twisting and swaying. I haven't tried one yet to know, but there are some examples out there that show this.
The Flycam has a much longer sled and can states it can support cameras up to 7.5lbs close to the supporting weight of a Glidecam HD4000. Pricing on HD4000 is around $550, and Wondlan's Carbon stabilizer $470, and Flycam's new Carbon Fiber C5 Telescoping stabilizer starts around $325 (found here).
Flycam C5 Carbon Fiber Telescoping Video Camera Stabilizer
Do not buy the Wondlan carbon fiber stabalizer, it is not work the money, I destroyed it after spending weeks and weeks, could not adjust it, the gimbal is great but it just does not work for me...no work the money. Good thing I had the glidecam HD4000 which I mode with monitor and steadicam vest and arm like @emm but I have the curved handle and arm post shave to fit the steadicam arm. I sold it this week as I need money to get the FS700 and shooting wedding does required a setup like this.
@imgpro615, I ordered mine too, will mod it once I get to have smallhd dp4 monitor.
hi guys. do anyone know if they did remove the gimbal problem? i tried the flycam nano. i ve read that bigger flycams suffer from the same problem.
i also tried
glidecam Pro 4000
glidecam HD 2000
Wondlan magic carbon
but glidecam hd 2000 is still the greatest solution for my needs.
...PS...I also removed and painted the blue knobs black...
...i notice that the bottom stage of the C5 sled is shorter than that of the Flycam 5000...by about 3 inches...it may affect your ability to balance...I did some simple mods to my C5 bottom stage by placing the weights farther out by about 2 inches fore and aft. I used some 'T' braces and lined up the bolts so I could keep them in line and stable. also put rubber feet on the horisontal parts that extended across on the left and right so not only is the weight better distributed, but also it has a wider footprint in case I sit it down...less prone to tipping over
i was checking that wondlan mini stabilizer the other day, their price seemed not as much as 470, if they can lower more, i might think about it
it was on the porch when i got out of work the other night!! i carried the topstage to work yesterday morn and fiddled about with it on breaks...this thing is solid and with adjustable friction, the microadjustable stage can be tuned to your liking...I looked over the other bits briefly after work last night and it is a very nice evolution of the flycam...positionable gimbal, nicer column lock with ratchet...it is like they listened to users and made it so...it is kinda like a poorman's steadicam pilot [very loosely translated] ...gonna try it all out this weekend...
@stephendiaz, cool blog and FB page...
@E I run the Glidecam Hd4000 with the 60D + Tokina + batterygrip + mic. Two weights on the bottom. I know it's over kill but I got the biggest one so if I ever upgrade or add more stuff to the top it can handle it. I just did a blog post over on stephendiaz.com [https://goo.gl/DSZgb] covering some glidecam alternatives you can get for CHEAP.
I started with the flycam back in the day with version1...which sucked. they've gotten a tonnn better since then but i would still recommend glidecam over the alternatives. if you have the $$$ spend it on a HD2000 at least, I got mine used through b&h for super cheap. The alternatives are great too if you're tryin to save money, but the features of the HD series just sold it for me.
Flycam Carbon Stabilizers CF3 and CF5 » CheesyCam
@Paul H - The HD2000 is good middle ground, but you have to make sure you have a good minimum amount of weight for balancing.
Ok, another question. If I upgrade a 5dmk3 at some point in the future, or put a few lightweight accessories on it. The HD2000 would be the way to go? I guess i'm trying to get a do it all device. But from the sounds of things most of you guys have the 1000 and 2000 (or equivalent) for different applications?
@Paul H...Emm is totally right...I use my steadicam JR with the 60D and lens only...very light...but when i shoot walk n talks I add a light, a wireless receiver, and many times a mattebox, follow focus, and rails...that brings the weight up to spec for the Flycam 5000 [Glidecam 4000 clone]
so for full kit i would use the Flycam C5 but for simple and clean i would use the Steadicam JR [or Glidecam HD 1000]
I hope this helps...
@Paul H - Most people want to get the biggest stabilizer they can afford, but the problem is that if you don't give it the minimum amount of weight it needs, you won't be able to balance it. If you're doing 7D + wide angle lenses no accessories the HD1000 will fly nicely. If you try to do it on an HD2000 be prepared to add some additional weight to the top with the camera.
Well as far as doing this as a business I shoot weddings almost every weekend during the summer so I'm guessing the glidecam would be the way to go. Flying a 7D or 60D with various wide angle lenses and no accessories, probably the HD2000?
@Paul H - It depends on how serious you are about flying. There's quite a few people who do it for fun, and not for work and don't do it everyday. If you're serious for your clients and need the fast workflow, go for the Glidecam.
For a first time steadycam-style device buyer, do you think it would be best to spend a little extra money and go with the standard Glidecam instead of buying one of these knock-offs?
@Al- i own a Glidecam 2000 Pro, STeadicam JR, and Flycam 5000...and have played with a Glidecam 1000 and 2000 HD...the HD series is awesome and probably well worth the money...i however do not have it to put down all at once...not yet anyway...i do not like the wondlan. But i am very excited that PROAIM updated the Flycam Ultralite topstage for this new C5...another payperiod and a music video and we may have it
@imgpro615 - please let us know when you do. I'm torn between this and the HD4000. The C5 looks to be a lot lighter and has the fine tuning screws (as confirmed by the seller) so could be an easy act to balance. Saying that though there's not one review anywhere on the web so I may just have to wait until reviews start popping up. Not even that many reviews on the Wondlan either come to think of it.
HELL YEAH! this is what i have been waiting for! the good folks from India have yet to let me down...i have read some horror stories of improper spacing and inaccurate drilling but by and large these guys get it tolerably right...and for the price, it is tough to beat especially if you are keen to modding stuff, you can make out like a bandit. And that is good for the multitude of us have nots! I will be getting one!
What is the difference between this and the Flycam 5000? They look about the same size to me.
That C5 looks monstrous compared to the original flycam nano!
The 60D + Tokina 11-16 and the nano is still my go to set up.
The Glidecam HD2000 looks to be about the size of the Flycam Nano DSLR. Claims to hold 1.5lbs more.
@pao- The HD2000 is not too small for that setup.
what about a 5d mkii w/ 16-53mm? is the hd2000 too small? would i need a hd4000?
Looking for a stablizer as well. I have a t3i/t2i with battery grip and would like to add a manfrotto quick release for quicker balancing. Tried a Glidecam HD1000 — didn’t seem big enough — any suggestions. Of course I am trying to be budget minded — but need quality. -- I forgot to mention I have a Tokina 11-16 with the setup described above -- also on he road a lot so small form factor is a bonus -- thanks in advance for the feedback
aldolega - well Ultra-wide is what I want then. I like the footage I see from it, I just always assumed it didn't have any curvature in the video because it was meant for FF cameras.
I am reconsidering the 11-16 though, since I would have to fly at 5.6 to get all in focus....and to use that aperture indoors for weddings would be no good as they are always too dimly lit...
I'm running the Flycam Nano DSLR with 5lbs of stuff on it and weights leftover. BTW, it's heavy! Better be in shape. 😉
I've also got the Rokinon 8mm F/3.5 manual fisheye and it's great. Super sharp, nice color and contrast (matches my Nikon lenses). Haven't used it for video yet, but it should look pretty awesome with 180 degrees of vision left to right.
@Jerry also - If you're flying under 3lbs or weight, the HD4000 is way too big of a stabilizer. I really think the HD4000 performs best when it's holding around 5lbs (personal experience).
Flycam is also 60 bucks shipping and free shipping for Woodlan. Something to make total cost comparisons.
Looking for a stablizer as well. I have a t3i/t2i with battery grip and would like to add a manfrotto quick release for quicker balancing. Tried a Glidecam HD1000 -- didn't seem big enough -- any suggestions. Of course I am trying to be budget minded -- but need quality.
E- the Tokina 11-16 is an UWA, not a fisheye. For a fisheye most people are very happy with the "manybrand" aka "Korean" fisheye, which is a fully manual f3.5 fisheye that is sold under a few different brands such as Samyang, Bower, Opteka, Vivitar, and Rokinon. Runs about $270-300.
...is an HD4000 equivalent, and so too big for medium dslrs?
I gather that your 7 or 11" friction arm is part of this. The camera could stay right-side up using the hot shoe, and the slip-screen angled up could eliminate the external monitor, at least for some kinds of uses.
Is your sense that the Flycam C5 is an HD4000 e
I echo MrE's question. I was fascinated by your "uber low" post, and would love to see a more detailed how-to regarding the flyer in that config, with some kind of monitor on top balancing a 60D-class camera below.
Alright I guess you convinced me to go for the HD2000. Hope that can handle and LED light and Rode VMP as well.
Can this be inverted for low shots.
@E - The HD4000 is too big for a 60D + Tokina 11-16mm. You could fly that setup on an HD4000, but make sure you add some extra weight to the top. You need a minimum amount of weight in order to get it balanced.
Cheap, and I've used older one before, this new one looks promising. If you can adjust the gimbal where the post is, that's a big plus.
love my flycam hd dslr nano but defiantly need to move up to something more robust...is this it you think?
I'm currently in the market for a stabilizer and have been researching. I have a 60D and plan to get the 11-16 Tokina next week but can't figure out what else to roll with.
Any suggestions for a better fisheye by chance? The Tokina seems to be praised a lot and I like the look.
As for stabilizer, I am thinking the HD4000, but I'm not sure.