How To Balance CAME H4 Hand Held Stabilizer or Any Stabilizer

I've been fortunate enough to operate many stabilizers over the years, and it's amazing how they continue to improve while at the same time become more affordable. Here's a look at yet another new product - the CAME H4 ultra portable Hand Held Video Stabilizer.

As a bonus, i've taken the time to walk you through the steps on how to balance most hand held stabilizers. During the (lengthy) balancing process in this video, you will learn the importance of many key features that will benefit you when shopping for any stabilizer.

Although you may find cheaper stabilizers on the market, many of them will lack a quick release plate with multiple mounting options, fine tuning knobs, an adjustable Gimbal handle, telescoping post, and folding counterweights. Without these features it would be extremely cumbersome to dial in perfect balance.

Cheesycam CAME H4 Hand Held Stabilizer Top StageCheesycam CAME H4 Hand Held Stabilizer

If you're looking for great example footage from this unit, hang tight i'm still working on this. For now at least I have a short demo in the video above. I can assure you that this CAME H4 Hand Held Stabilizer is as good or better than any portable stabilizer i've used in the past. The CAME H4 build is a combination of Carbon Fiber and Aluminum with a very high quality anodized finish.

For DSLR Cameras relative to the size of a Canon 5D Mark II/MarkIII, the baseplate fits nicely with access to the battery door. The stabilizer folds down to a minimum height of just 12" inches and comes with a padded travel case. For more information, visit the product page at http://CAME-TV.Com

Cheesycam CAME H4 Hand Held Stabilizer Compare
find-price-button CAME H4 Ultra Portable Hand Held Video Stabilizer

You can also find this product available via Amazon (found here) and for International eBay (found here).

 119 Comments





119 thoughts on “How To Balance CAME H4 Hand Held Stabilizer or Any Stabilizer

  1. @Suzanne - Well without you telling me what your setup is, I can't say if it's too light. Also most people are confused, but to fly these stabilizers well you have to use two hands. If you are trying to do it with one hand, then you won't be able to control it well. It takes lots of practice to be good. Sometimes weeks to months to get the hang of flying one of these very well.

  2. Suzanne

    Thanks for helpful video, I can balance the camera but it still sways quite a lot when I move. I wonder if the camera is too light. Any suggestions?

  3. Mr. Mac

    What is that thing holding the Rod? I bought the table clamp and I have the rod. I can't find anything to hold the Rod.
    Help!!!

  4. jeff

    I have been trying to figure out the H4 for a few days now. My camera, lens and QR weigh between 1.10 and .756 kg. Lumix G7 with Rokinor 12mm lens with or without a wide angle adapter along with quick release.

    I notice that after balancing just as you do in your great video (super helpful) that the balance seems to change or vary from time to time. I found that the sled is actually kind of loose. So much so that when moving back and forth with a little speed it will actually "clunk" and I can feel it.

    Kind of bummed on that. Also noticed that when the bottom pole is extended all the way it also can move back and forth a bit which also changes balance.

    Is this normal? The balance just won't stay set. I have written to the manufacturer and waiting for reply.

    I see they have the Wieldy on their site also. it looks sturdier. Do you think it would be a better choice for me? Is it more solid?

    thanks for your site. It's an awesome resource and I find it very helpful.

  5. Emm

    Post author

    @Sergui - That sounds too heavy for these smaller stabilizers. You might need something like a Glidecam HD2000 size.

  6. Sergui

    Hi, in my case I between Came H4 and Glide Cam XR 2000. I.m goin to use a 7D mark II (910gr) and the Tamron 17-50 (570 gr) I will use sometimes microphones and led lights no more than 400 gr.
    That means around 1600 gr in total (olus bateries and cards).
    I really prefer the Came h4 because is smaller, and really convinient for my documentaries but I.m quite scare the it will be not enough for all my equipment (in the spec of h4 appears up to 3 kg, whitch will be enough, but it looks so small).
    What do you think?
    And in terms of time to stabilize is as difficult as the glidecam?
    Can i run with it?

    Thanks!

  7. JD

    Great video! I’m looking for a stabilizer for my Gh2. I’ll be using it with the 20mm pancake as well as some vintage lenses. I know the Gh2 is smaller than the Gh3, is that going to be a problem? Will this work with my Gh2?

    Thanks so much,

    JD

  8. Zetty

    @Emm Thanks for the tip, that really might be good solution and shouldn't worry about the fit either.

  9. Emm

    Post author

    @Zetty - I sometimes use Tennis Racket Wraps found at the sports store. They even come padded. This same wrap is used on Tennis Rackets, Baseball Bats, Hockey Sticks, etc. They have some very cool rubber grippy ones in different patterns and colors.

  10. Zetty

    I've just gotten H4 but I'm allergic to the foam handle it's supplied with (rare skin allergy although it's the first time I can't tolerate foam) -- what are my options to replace it with? Would something like bicycle rubber handlebar grip work?

  11. Emm

    Post author

    @Anthony - Almost the same, the H4 is newer but you probably couldn't tell any difference once you have them both balanced. Slightly different products, same end results.

  12. Fred Llewellyn

    Trimming the back edge of the mounting so that the back bottom edge of the camera is flush with the back edge of the mounting plate so that nothing will interfere with the LED display tilting. Doing this will probably lose the rear locking pin. The camera's mounting screw hole is very close to the rear edge of the camera's base, the center of the hole is .25" from rear edge. Looking at the base of the camera, it would be better to notch the mounting plate for clearance of the tilting 3" LED display. to allow as much contact of the camera's base to the mounting plate. The mounting hole of the camera is centered with its display and about 1" left of camera's center of balance when looking forward to the lens. Again the camera is a Sony RX-10. I am going to try to send back the Revo ST-1000 to B& H photo where I had purchased it . Unfortunately they do not sell the CAME H4. Thanks again

  13. Fred Llewellyn

    Thank you for the wonderful video. I own a Sony Rx-10 weighing 1.79lbs. with battery& memory card. It has a tilting led screen. I have tried a Revo ST-1000 stabilizer but the mounting plate and the locking screw in the back prevents the screen to tilt. I have tried mounting the camera 90 degrees, but then it will not balance.The mounting plate for the CAME H4 is secured by rails on the sides rather than front and back. The other problem I see is when you can focal length on the zoom, the balance will change. The CAME H4 is much faster to balance. Do you have any tips using this stabilizer and zooming? Mainly do you think that it will work with the Sony RX-10? I think that if necessary I can grind the mounting plate for clearance in the back to allow the screen to tilt.I do not plan for any other accessory on camera while videoing. Thanks.

  14. Emm

    Post author

    @Antonio - If you have all of the weights equal to each, it should not throw off the balance. Mine does not rotate as it drops.

  15. Antonio

    Hi,
    The bottom part with the weights rotates a little bit when I extend it, and I have to redo the Horizontal balance.
    Any suggestion?

  16. Emm

    Post author

    @Andrew - No mine did not have any play to it. If it can't be tightened then it should be replaced.

  17. Andrew

    @Emm - yes, there are for each for bottom and top plates. I've tightened all of them. Did you view the video I shared, does that amount of movement (slop) seem in line with what your unit has? To me, it's unacceptable.

  18. Emm

    Post author

    @Edward C - Swaying is typically caused by being too top heavy or too bottom heavy. Most likely too bottom heavy. A lot of stabilizer use is practice practice practice. It takes two hands to fly these stabilizers (not one). You have to learn to control carrying with one hand, and steering with the other. You also have to practice your walking techniques.

  19. Edward C

    I bought the H4 and having a difficult time getting the everything stable. I'm still getting a slight sway when walking. IMO I believe the H4 is a defect off the line. I'm using a A65 with a Rokinon Cine 16mm T2.2 lens and I can balance the camera to where is does not drift to any side, then when I adjust the height of the gimbal the camera goes off balance. I tried different combinations yet still the system sways. Any suggestion? Btw I'm novice to stabilizers and gimbals.

  20. Curtis James

    Bought a Came TV H4. First time ever stabilizer user.
    I been watching videos especially the cheesycam balancing H4 vid, for the past week while waiting for it to arrive which. I don't know what the big deal is?
    I balanced it within the first 3 min out of the box, switched to a much heavier setup (A7s metabones adapter 24-70 2.8 Nikon) and balanced it as well.
    For those of you complaining about the screw, it fit fine on my d800, A7s and Metabones adapter.
    For people having issues I have two words, HOME DEPOT. 1/4" 20 thread you should have a ton of these 40 cents. If not steal the screw from a different quick release plate or add a quick release plate to the H4 cheese plate. Worst case put a wide thin washer in-between the camera and quick release plate. 25 cents

    I'm realizing the more weight definitely helps so I added a 2" diameter washer in-between the smaller and longer counter weights. It makes a huge difference. If I'm using a lighter lens with the A7s I add a Aluminum spacer which raises the camera and adds weight as well as add a few heavy washers to the front of the cheese plate to try to get the weight as spread as possible

    I actually want to move the counter weights out further from the centre pole but because the threads on the weights are metric 8mm course thread its quite difficult to find the parts locally. I believe this would increase inertia significantly.

    Honestly if your hating on the H4 you should just forget about using a stabilizer. With its adjustable Its about as easy to balance and setup as possible

  21. Emm

    Post author

    @Noel - Yeah I think it will work. It might be a little on the light weight side of things, but you can always add something like a Quick Release system to the top.

  22. Emm

    Post author

    @Jayce - Honestly I would personally use a different lens when flying, but if you want to fly that lens you are looking more towards a Glidecam HD4000.

  23. @Emm Thank you! Turns out a rubber washer did the trick with the plate/screw (as expected). I also tightened each screw at the legs and they are now relatively similarly snug. Success! Thanks again.

  24. Emm

    Post author

    @Stanton - I would shoot a few pics and maybe a video to show them what you're talking about. Mine was very stable at the legs. As far as the camera on the top plate, you can try adding something like thick cork from a hobby store.

  25. Hi! This puppy showed up in the mail today. Very nice build, apart from 2 things. I'm hoping you can assist.

    1. Cheese plate doesn't secure itself tight to the base of the Rebel t3i. I had seen a review from a Nikon user with this issue, but not from Canon users as of yet. Should a rubber washer do the trick to secure the screw and plate to the canon body?

    2. The 3 legs are not equally stable. It appears each of the 3 leg bolts/connections are tightly wound, yet 1 leg is "floppy", meaning the h4 itself does not stand balanced. Is that common and just an issue I will need to work around? Or is this something worth sending back for a whole new unit?

    Thank you so much! And thank you for making such a wonderful balancing review. I look forward to taking advantage of it once I fix these issues. Cheers!

  26. Emm

    Post author

    @Kiri - Yes these systems are pretty easy to balance, but there's a minimum amount of weight these stabilizers need. Your setup is just too light.

  27. Kiri

    Thanks Emm. I've spent a couple hours experimenting with heavier lenses to test out the theory. I believe it actually has a lot to do with the vertical position the handle. With a top weight (heavier lens) that allows the handle to be placed nearer the top, the system seems more stable in general.
    With the lighter lens setup, I have to put the handle all the way at the bottom, which seems to be making it more unstable (even though it is 'balanced'), than the lightness per-se. Does that make sense?

    I'll keep experimenting and see with what I can come up with. It's quite frustrating though. The major reason I decided to buy this stabilizer was because it looked relatively easy to set up ><

  28. Emm

    Post author

    @Kiri - Yup, sounds like your setup is still too light. The more mass the better. Maybe try throwing a quick release system with your camera or maybe throw it into a cage. It sounds like your just trying to balance something too light.

  29. Kiri

    I cannot for the life of me get this balanced 🙁
    I'm using a G6 and have tried the lumix 20mm lens (I think that setup was too light), now I'm trying the olympus 9-18mm lens.
    I have followed all the steps in the video. I have achieved a drop time of 2-3 seconds, I have the camera balanced so it does not rotate from any of the positions when setup on the pole.. and yet when I actually try to hold it, it sways around and does not stay centered. Any ideas?

    Note, I have taken off the smaller weights from the bottom because the camera/lens setup is so light. Is it possible its still too light?

  30. Chris

    I just got mine today and the screw that secures the quick release plate is totally bent. Really unfortunate that I have to send this back when I need it for an upcoming project. It came in a beat up box with the bag and stabilizer inside. The bag served as "padding" but clearly that wasn't enough.

  31. Emm

    Post author

    @Derrick - A vest doesn't really work well with these small stabilizers. Typically there isn't enough weight to load up the ISO arm and get the springs working.

    You can't really pull focus or zoom in and out once it's on this stabilizer, so I like shooting with a Prime lens. It will be smaller and lighter than a zoom. If you are using a full frame camera, I like something around a 20mm or a 24mm lens. If you are using APS-C check out the Tokina 11-16mm or the Canon 10-22mm.

  32. Derrick

    First off I would like to say you're videos are HUGELY informative and I appreciate your effort in helping the photo/video community! Really awesome videos. But I am curious to know, have you ever used the h4 with a vest and arm and if so which one do you recommend? Also in your opinion what would be your "Go to" lens when shooting with this stabilizer? I have a canon 6d with a 24-105 Lseries lens and it's pretty heavy. I also have a 50mm 1.8 and that may be too light and the DOF is so shallow I don't think it would be ideal for flying. Any thoughts?

  33. K C

    Thanks for your valuable instruction video. I would recommend to my friends. To solve the mounting problem the easy way for me is put 1/16 thick cork sheet on the top of the plate ( or layers of masking tap as needed) it will fill up the gab and sercuite the camera.

  34. Simon

    Hi Emm

    Thanks for the advice, I might look at one of Came TVs 2/3 axis stabilisers suspect they might be better for my needs.

  35. Emm

    Post author

    @Simon - If you want to use a recorder with your Canon, I would have to say the H4 is not the right stabilizer. You would have to look for something larger like the Laing P04 or Wieldy.

  36. Simon

    Hi Emm

    Very interested to view your review and stabilisation guide. I once a very cheap stabiliser and it was a total disaster, but clearly the Came H4 is far better product and I am considering ordering one.

    My questions is this: having recently bought a Ninja Blade so I can record ProRes 422HQ straight from my 5D mk3 sensor, I would like to be able to use the Ninja with the H4. How would you recommend mounting the recorder, on top attached to the camera or with a clamp close to the bottom of the stabiliser? Or is it not advised to try and mount the recorder to the H4?

  37. Emm

    Post author

    @Bill - The plate is proprietary. If you want to make things easier, you would have to add a qr base over the H4.

  38. Bill

    Hi thanks for the review!
    They are so helpful. I ended up getting one as well.

    I was wondering from your experience with this product. Does the quick release plate fit on benro s4 video head?
    I'm hoping to find a monopod that takes the same release plate so I don't have to change it all the time.

    Any tips or product suggestion would be great!

  39. Emm

    Post author

    @James - I prefer it, but that's subjective. I only fly smaller cameras and have been doing it for a while. Regardless of the handle, you definitely have to build up a tolerance with flying. It's like working out, the more you do it, the more comfortable you are at performing that technique. When you first get a stabilizer you'll get sore, but practice and it gets easier.

  40. James

    Hey Emm!
    Whats your opinion on the angled handle? How does it effect the ergonomics and operation of the stabilizer?
    Thanks!

  41. Nacho

    Doesn't this support up to 5Kg? Wouldn't it be ok to use with a GH4, a plate and follow focus?

    I don't know if I shoulde by this (or the LAING H3 or H4 which seems to be the same) or the LAING P4S. The P4S can load up to 15Kg so it seems too much for the GH4 with a plate and FF.

    Any suggestions? Thnaks in advance!

  42. Emm

    Post author

    @Joss - No it will not work with a BMCC (large cinema camera). It will work with a 5D, but I think the 24-70mm may be a bit heavy.

  43. Joss

    Hi! Will works with a 5d mark II and canon 24-70 2.8 (I)?
    Bmcc will works to? Have a similar size like 5d...

    Thanks!!

  44. Emm

    Post author

    @Kyle - you wont be able to use a follow focus on this stabilizer and that would be too much weight.

  45. Kyle

    Can I attach a cage say the GB-3 Gearbox Video Cage from P&C on to this is I possibly wanted to add a follow focus to the stabiliser?

  46. Emm

    Post author

    @Anthony - Oh yeah sorry misunderstood. It should support that weight with a battery grip.

  47. Anthony

    Thanks Emm,

    I mean using the GH3 with 12-35 and battery grip only ON the H4. I'm not wanting to mount an H4n on it which is what I think you understood???

  48. Emm

    Post author

    @Anthony - I would limit the amount of weight on the rig, these things can get heavy quick. I don't think you can fit a battery grip, and if you want to run an H4 it would have to be mounted to the handles.

  49. Anthony

    I received mine a few weeks back but haven't had the chance to play with it yet. It's a very well made bit of kit though. I'm planning on using it with an Arca Swiss qr base and plate for a bit of extra weight and for quick changes to and from my other jibs and tripods.

    Quick question to Emm, have you tried using the H4 with a GH3, Lumix 12-35 and the battery grip with battery in it? Too top heavy???

    Ideally, that's how i'd like to run it.

  50. Dave

    Emm - Thanks for your videos, as they are very informative. I like your trick of flipping the stabilizer upside down for low angle shots. Clever.

    I have a GH3 and I'm a bit concerned about being able to use the CAME H4 with it. Adding weight via a QR plate to the GH3 would certainly help, but it also adds another point of failure. All the same, the CAME H4 seems like one of the best options at this time. If other GH3 and GH4 users have tips on getting the H4 balanced, please share!

  51. SpartaBear

    @Daniel Hupert @Josh

    I can relate to the frustration of wanting for things to work right out of the box, but clogging this section with posts about a non fitting base screw...?
    I don´t exactly know how many screws I own (maybe 15), but I consider them a stable.
    A company offering to pay for that screw while being on the other side of the world, what`s more to ask for?
    Just order a freaking 1/4 screw and be over with it http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=sr_nr_n_9?rh=n%3A502394%2Ck%3A1%2F4%22+screw&keywords=1%2F4%22+screw&ie=UTF8&qid=1402216476&rnid=2941120011

    @Daniel Huppert
    If your tech reporter at the station you say you work, really falls for your "pitch" maybe you could name the piece "Screw you China!" or " She CAME, but I didn't screw her."

  52. Josh

    @Daniel Huppert

    I had the same issue. I shoot with Nikons (the scourge of DSLR video). I tried to use a washer between plate and head- too large. I guess I could grind it down, but meh. Tried it between plate and camera, eh. Camera won't last long without sliding off. I had a thick baseplate that came with my lcd viewfinder. I used that to screw into. Worked fine. If you find a better solution or anything let me know, and vice versa.

  53. Emm

    Post author

    @Jeff Brandt - I can't stress enough about practicing, and that it takes weeks to months to get really good with stabilizers. My first Glidecam 2000 experience was a nightmare. I wrote about it somewhere in this blog. I spent a whole weekend frustrated and almost threw the unit out the window.

    Be patient and practice. Even these motorized gimbals can be just as frustrating. With any tool it is about learning, practicing, and getting better. Try adding more weight with a good quick release and practice your handling.

  54. I too just got the came h4 stabilizer. I'm using a GH3 and the panny 25mm f 1.4. I followed Emm's instruction pretty religiously. When placing the handle on a light stand and placing the stabilizer in the horizontal position, I could never really get all 4 sides to balance. 3 out of 4 but not 4. My guess on that is the the cheese plate is sliding. I tightened the thing as far as it could go but it still isn't locked in place. The other thing is that like someone else noted, you can't use Emm's advice on a GH3 when it comes to extending the the bottom legs as far as they can go. The camera isn't heavy enough. I spent maybe 45 minutes trying to get the thing balanced and my best shots looked like a drunken sailor walking down the street. - much swaying side to side. Can think of few things that I've done recently that were more frustrating.

    Emm - way back when you started trying to use a stabilizer, was the learning curve this steep?

    The headache with this is starting to make a 2K brushless gimbal look like a bargain:)

  55. OldCorpse

    You are right, Emm. I actually have the Manfrotto QR, so I might try that. I did want to try adding the battery grip too, plus maybe another cheese plate that actually might improve the CAME cheese plate position to be closer to the center of gravity of GH3+12-35 lens, so it needs less stage adjustment.

  56. Emm

    Post author

    @OldCorpse - Sounds like you could solve many of your issues by adding a quick release system like the Manfrotto 577. This will add more weight, lift the camera higher (which makes it heavier on a stabilizer), and also allow you to remove it for quick battery access. Not to mention with a QR plate underneath you can quickly move to a manfrotto tripod.

  57. OldCorpse

    I bougth the CAME H4, and it arrived pretty fast, so that's good. I figured I should give some feedback for those who are in a similar situation. The "bad news": the GH3 with the Panasonic 12-35 f/2.8 lens is too light for the Came H4. What I mean is that the recommendation Emm makes, that you extend fully the lower part of the stabilizer, is impossible, because that makes the weight too heavy even with the gimbal as low as it'll go. So you have no choice but to shorten the lower part, which means you now have to set it every time... but by compensation, I guess, if you extend the gimbal all the way down, you don't have to re-set that part. Now, this is not a deal-breaker by any means, but something to be aware of. Maybe using different (heavier) lenses or adding weight with a battery grip or an additional cheese-plate might change things again.

    The other thing is that with the cheese plate that comes with the H4, once on, you don't have access the battery any more (door is obstructed).

    Suggestions for improvement: add some kind of rubberized strip or surface to the cheeseplate so that it doesn't slide; also, it would be neat to have some kind of markings on the shafts of the H4, with numbers (like there are on the cheeseplate), so that you can write down how far to drop the gimbal and/or weights, instead of experimenting every time.

    I'm still trying to balance out the GH3 w/ the 12-35 lens - and I'm a complete 100% newbie at this, since I never used a stabilizer before. So far, I have a bizarre issue, in that none of the balancing methods give the same result. After trying to get the best possible cheeseplate position (really, there is only one option with one hole - I think the same one Emm used on his Canon), I then put it on a tripod and a 15mm rail through the handle, like Emm did. I tried to balance it using the stage knobs, in the upright position, and got both bubble levels pretty much dead in the middle... so far so good. Then I went to the balancing it sideways like Emm showed, allowing gravity to pull it this way and that. I was shocked that the first balancing effort was actually WORTHLESS - it required a full 3-4 turns of the stage knobs to balance out, not just a single turn like for Emm. In the end I got it to stay in whatever position I put it, without twisting or turning - "perfectly" balanced. Next, I adjusted the weight/gimble shafts and got it to a 2 second drop. And then came the test, I took it off and held it - total failure. The camera is visibly lens-heavy. Somehow all that "perfect" balance wasn't "perfect" at all. Wow - three balancing actions, and every one dramatically different and not agreeing with each other. Clearly, I have a lot to learn and experiment.

    Thank you Emm for the great instruction video. If anyone has any tips as to why all my balances are so totally off from each other, I'm all ears.

  58. Daniel Huppert

    @iain - judging by this photo (http://i00.i.aliimg.com/wsphoto/v0/1727627442_5/LAING-H3-Carbon-Fibre-Handheld-Steadicam-Camera-Stabilizer-DSLR-DV-21-06-LB-Load-DHL-EMS.jpg) it looks to be exactly the same. The H4 I have in hand has the exact numbers (FSV1312001) near the gimbal.
    Aside from that, I just now noticed the CAME sticker looked a bit odd, so I peeled it off. Beneath it, it reads "Camera Equipment FALCON" painted on. So, I think they both come from whoever that is.

  59. iain

    @Emm - sorry another question was just about to purchase this and then noticed the Laing H3 mini stabilizer, which looks almost identical. The Laing is available here in the UK which would save any customs charges. Do you know if the Laing & Came are the same model just with different branding?

  60. Johnny

    @Emm - I know about the two to three second drop test, and I've done that. I'll just keep working on it, but I'm sure it's not the camera because it's heavy enough with a battery grip.

  61. Emm

    Post author

    @Johnny - If it is swaying most likely you are too bottom heavy. Slide the gimbal handle lower (millimeters at a time) and test that drop time again. It should come down slow but not too slow. Play with those settings until you can get your sway out. When you fly these stabilizers use two hands. One for carrying the weight, one for steering. Practice practice practice.

  62. Johnny

    I got the balancing working just like the video you made, but for some reason it still has a tendency to sway back and force like a ship. Another thing I find is that the so call ergonomics handle causes fatigue holding it in the 45 degree angle.

  63. Daniel Huppert

    Wow. I wasn't trying to do anything other than seek some suggestions on a workaround, as well as warn other's who might also be Nikon owners.

    Next time a company tries selling a tripod with one leg longer than the others (a better metaphor than a lamp with a broken bulb), I'm sure Joel will be first in line, and you'll suggest he's being unrealistic when he complains.

    And, this site will keep endorsing that product.

    I'll let myself out.

    Daniel Huppert
    ps- pitching this as a story to our tech reporter at the station I work at.

  64. Patrick

    @Daniel Huppert I don't think they were saying "screw you. " They were saying they would help pay for the screw for you.

    Honestly speaking, I don't know what you want from the company. Anyways, I think your on the wrong place. This is DIY camera website, not the Better Business Bureau.

    Good luck to you.

  65. Daniel Huppert

    @Joel the washer suggestion doesn't completely work.

    Listen, I get how it might sound to some. But there's only a sliver of space between the bottom of the cheeseplate and the stabilizer head to begin with on this model's design. A washer protrudes the screw too far out.

    That, and of course them essentially telling me to go screw myself. That subtlety didn't go over my head.

    Their description never mentioned it not being compatible with certain brands. It's a bum deal, and my money went to something now crippled.

    Wouldn't you want other Nikon owners knowing this info?

  66. Patrick

    @Daniel Huppert I'll probably be putting a QR adapter on mines after it comes in. I'll Keep you posted if that's a more viable solution.

    @Joel LOL!

    @Emm Thanks Emm! Really looking forward to receiving this product.

  67. Daniel Huppert

    Your suggestion partially worked. Very limited space between the plate and the head. Thankfully the lens I intend on using it with is the sigma 18-35 (fairly heavy), so where I need to thread it thru on the cheeseplate is near the back, and doesn't interfere. Much thanks for the suggestion. Returning it would have cost me the shipping (other side of the globe, and not a light item). Still soured by the issue. Don't think I'll be buying from them anymore. But... whadayagunnado.

  68. Joel

    @Daniel Huppert - So you are going to send the entire stabilizer back just because you can't handle putting a washer on the screw? Seriously?

    When you have a light bulb burn out, you probably then return the lamp, huh ...

  69. Emm

    Post author

    @Daniel Huppert - I've used this screw on both my Panasonic and Canon cameras without any problems. There is a very very very simple solution for you without even having to change the screw. Simply pick up a 'washer' and place it over the screw before threading it from under the plate. This will take up the very little space on your Nikon.

    Again, don't put the washer under the camera, place the washer under the plate. Sorry to hear it doesn't perfectly fit your camera, but the solution is not that difficult that you would have to return the entire stabilizer.

  70. Daniel Huppert

    UPDATE 5/24/14: CAME-TV's response- "Thanks for your email, but we do not have the screw for every camera, the item is just like the one in our description. You could buy the suitable screw in your local, the best we could do is help you to pay the screw cost even we are not responsible for it. Have a nice day."

    And, my reply back- "Disappointing to hear, as I will have to return this purchase. As you know, leveling a stabilizer is critical. I will not settle for having to use second hand purchased items which may not even end up working. Why you did not include a screw that would work universally with every major model camera manufacturer is beyond me."

  71. Emm

    Post author

    @herofair - It will always try to stay level, but you can program it to do a 'follow mode' where if you tilt up enough degrees it will slowly tilt with you. If you pan enough, it will pan slowly to follow your direction.

  72. Daniel Huppert

    Anybody else who ordered having problems with the 1/4 20 screw? It's too long, and I can't lock the plate to my camera body. I'm gonna have to jump thru hoops just for a screw now. :/

  73. Deanster

    Hi Emm, greetings from Hollywood, CA.

    I just saw your video and bought the H4 a few minutes ago. I was considering buying the GlideCam HD2000 until I saw your video. Make sure you get the commission from that sale LOL!

    Cheers and thanks for the awesome recommendation!

    --
    Dean

  74. Emm

    Post author

    @Archie - The Sabre is still an excellent stabilizer, i would place it right under this one, maybe even a 9/10. They will both give you the same end result with smooth flying shots. It's all in the practice.

  75. Archie

    Thanks a lot for the help Emm.

    I have the XCAM 2013 (but I have hardly used it last year for some reason).
    If you would rate this model a 10/10.
    How much would you rate the XCAM 2013 in comparison?

  76. Emm

    Post author

    @Jeff - Yes you can pack the system away and easily put it back together. In the end of the video, I show an example of this. If you need to remove the baseplate from the camera, just remember which hole on the plate you mounted your camera to.

    For a camera the size of a GH3, this and the XCAM Sabre stabilizers are the best I know about. The H4 is a newer model if that matters to you. They are cheaper and more portable than say a Glidecam, and still offer more features the Glidecam units don't have. Build quality it top notch.

  77. Hi Emm,

    Been reading your site for years. Thx for all the great info! I currently don't own any stabilizers. Considering getting one and trying to evaluate ease of use. I have a Kessler kc lite jib which I rarely use because it's a huge hassle to haul around and set up. Forever on the hunt for easier ways to get dynamic shots.

    Once you balance the camera, can you pack away and then be ready to go again assuming same camera/lens combo?

    I shoot with gh3 and 12-35 & 35-100. Are there any other stabilizers I should be considering?

  78. Emm

    Post author

    @Richard - The parts on the 7000 can be found anywhere. Many companies are selling similar items, but some won't offer a complete bundle including the controller, wiring, battery, etc. Also the motors and the controllers may be different, which means it has to be configured differently than the 7000. The CAME 7000 is a bundled item that I knew would be ready to run after assembly, since there is plenty of documentation online and others have had great results.

  79. Just ordered one! Thanks so much for this. One of my biggest reservations ever was that without ever being able to use one, the setup time would be impractical for what I shoot. This sounds amazing! Thanks so much.

  80. Richard

    Just found your website - wow full of good stuff 🙂

    I was looking at the CAME 7000 (For a GH4) so my question, if you had both and you had to grab just one - would you go H4 or 7000 ? End Results look similar.

    Also is CAME an OEM factory? As the 7000 is sold under many brand names - so would be interested to know if CAME are rebadging them or are indeed the OEM for them. Rich 🙂

  81. Emm

    Post author

    @iAmJDuff - Hmm even without an angled handle, I tend to hold handles at an angle. I find it absorbs the up/down motion better instead of being directly under the pivot. When I angle my handle it moves up and down, yet the stabilizer will stay at the same height.

    p.s. Yeah we're all over the Bay Area at different times. Maybe i'll post on twitter if I have something planned in the east bay.

  82. Wow! Thanks @emm!

    My first time posting... and a response? Awesome!!

    So it sounds like I should keep the Glidecam AND buy the H4?? lol! I see what you're saying though. In my short year of starting my business I've been doing very fast paced video shoots. Weddings, music videos, and youtube pilot(coming soonish). I have yet to see or consider the use of a vest and monitor setup. Would be fantastic, but as I am sometimes shooting solo, not fathomable :/

    If I may ask another question..? This new angled handle bar for "ergonomics". Do you find it is harder on your wrist with the cameras weight? I'm getting used to having my wrist straight, handle right of the bar or, handle in front of the bar.

    As I have weak wrists(darn corporate jobs) I would hate to have a tilted bar if it isn't functional with all the weight out and the inability to straighten your wrist. If it is better on your wrist, then great!

    Thank you again for the help! You're awesome!

    Manuia(cheers)!

    J

    PS. I noticed you were shooting in my area, WC, for the "sabre" video! I would love to collab and learn from a master guru! iamjduff.com 😀

  83. Emm

    Post author

    @iAmJDuff - From your weight specs, it sounds like this new CAME H4 stabilizer can handle it. If you want the most stable setup, load up mass on your camera and load up weights on your Glidecam. The heavier the system the better and will even handle better on breezy days. The problem is that it's such a pain to travel with when it's not necessary.

    I personally have several stabilizers. I'll always choose the smallest one whenever possible, but when the time comes I pull out the larger setups, add the monitors, throw on the vest. As with lenses, you may end up with several stabilizers.

  84. Hi @emm!

    Thank you so much for this review! I have 5 days to decide if I'm gonna keep my GC HD2000 and want to know if you think this is a better choice for run and gun filming with a heavier end dslr?

    I shoot with the following mounted:

    -Sony a99, 1.8 lbs.
    -cz 24-70 2.8, 2.17 lbs.
    -Giottos M577, 0.62 lbs

    I have read that the GC HD 2000 gimble is at the top end, but the portability and balancing convenience of this new H4 might be a better choice for me.

    Please let me know what you think! I love your page and videos 🙂 Seriously the reason for a lot of my production gear lol

    Cheers!

    J

    #myfirsttimepostinghere

  85. Anthony

    Hi emm,

    I was about to buy a Weifeng stabilizer off ebay for $215 and it looks pretty much the same as this one but is all alloy. Have you any experience with the weifeng one? Considering that just the centre pole of this is carbon, I don't think there will be much weight saving over the Weifeng one and the Weifeng is a good deal cheaper. Can't find any info online though of the Weifeng.

    Thanks

  86. Musouka

    @Emm - thanks for the quick reply and suggestion 🙂

    It seems the Fuji X100S would barely make it. According to my food scale, its weight with the lens cap is 456g (16.1oz). Without the lens cap, it weighs 444g (15.66oz). Of course, no one would fly a camera with the lens cap on, haha.

    I would have liked something with collapsible weights for easier storage but I guess I will give this a thought. Thanks again.

  87. Emm

    Post author

    @Steve - I guess it depends on what cameras you plan on trying to fly. There is such a thing as a camera being 'too light' or 'too heavy' for a stabilizer. A Blackmagic Cinema Camera will never work with the CAME H4. A small camera like a GH3 would not be a better fit on the Laing over the H4.
    If you're planning on flying just smaller cameras around the size of a Canon DSLR or lighter, the H4 is the perfect size and the folding design makes it killer for travel and packing.

  88. Steve

    Hello Emm,

    This stabilizer looks great but I have been looking at the Laing P-04S Stabilizer. How does this one compare to the Laing? Also how smooth is the actual gimbal? They are both around the same price and have heard good things about the Laing one. Any info would be greatly appreciated.

    Peace
    Steve

  89. iain

    @Emm thanks again and as ever appreciate the time and effort you put into the videos and site

  90. Emm

    Post author

    @Scott800 - Good question. Unlike the Glidecam that can twist around, the bottom of this stabilizer does not rotate on the post. It simply extends, but does not rotate.

  91. Emm

    Post author

    @lain thomas - I'm not familiar with the stabilizer you picked up, but operating a stabilizer like this always requires two hands. For a camera the size of a GH3 and in a Fhugen cage, I think the H4 or Sabre are the best options.

  92. Iain thomas

    @Emm cheers. Got a last minute job tomorrow so picked up a generic s60 stabilizer from Amazon Prime over here in the uk it was the only option that gave me next day delivery. For the price £88 I was surprised on the quality of the thing and managed to balance up a Gh3 in a fhughen cage quite quickly. The only thing that drove me mad was how loose the gimbal seemed to be and the stabiliser wouldn't keep the camera straight front off and kept veering off. I notice from yours a and other videos using the left hand to guide the steering.
    Not sure if you've got any experience with the s60 which seems to be generic and badged up as either Eimo, Gex or opteka but do you think the new Came model would worth the extra, listed on eBay over here for £180 compared to the s60

  93. Scott800

    Fast response! Thanks! Last thing, so the bottom telescopic portion is fixed from twisting on a track or something? that's all I am worried about, is it able to freely twist as I loosen and am extending the base?

  94. Emm

    Post author

    @Scot800 - The bottom may twist with some extreme force, but there is a rubber pad on the platform that holds in place if you tighten the screw well. On a crop sensor, I think 24mm (equivalent) may look more natural and still offer decent wide. Of course not everything will have people in it, so in those situations sometimes distortion is used to exaggerate movement and speed. I guess it's all totally subjective, but I like the wide look when you see more and things are just flying by quickly.

  95. Scott800

    What focal length do you recommend for this type of stabilizer? I have a crop sensor cam that I want to use with it, and can't figure out what would be a natural looking lens. I have a 35mm, 24mm 1.8 sigma and a 14mm rokinon. Of those, which would you use? I use a 12mm one and it looked too distorted. Does the bottom portion twist? Will it fall out of balance if it does?

  96. Emm

    Post author

    @lain thomas - This is a newer product than the Sabre, very similar with minor differences. Both will still serve as excellent stabilizers, but for sure the QR plate will not block Canon DSLR battery doors with the H4. Both will still fly equally the same once you have them balanced well (and practice too).

  97. Iain thomas

    @Emm superb video once again and looks a great product. Is this an upgrade on their Xcam sabre model?

  98. Emm

    Post author

    @Robert_Ob - The end results will be the same with most any stabilizer. First note, the HD2000 and HD4000 is way too big for your GH3. The idea is to 'counterbalance' the camera weight. Those stabilizers are so big compared to a GH3, there will not be enough weight to counterbalance. Second note, none of those Glidecam models offer an adjustable gimbal or folding weights. For a GH3, I would highly recommend this stabilizer.

  99. Robert_Ob

    Thank you so much for the video! I am looking for a stabilizer for my GH3 and this is super helpful. Any idea of how the resulting footage can compare with the more popular glidecam HD4000 or 2000?

  100. ryan

    @Emm Thanks for this video! The tip about balancing on the rod on all 4 sides... 4 thumbs up.

    Quick question, what sorta lens were you using when you shot that sample video?

    Kickass. Thank you good sir.

  101. Musouka

    I am looking for a stabilizer for my Fuji X100S. I suppose the camera is a bit too light for this one? If so, any suggestions for a good stabilizer?

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