DIY Build Videos – CAME 7000 3 Axis Gimbal Stabilizer

Today i've released several videos showing the assembly of the CAME 7000 3 Axis Gimbal Stabilizer. The videos start from basic assembly to basic PID tuning (very basic), and a few personal tweaks. It's a work in progress but for those who have just decided to pick up a CAME 7000 DIY gimbal kit, it should be a good start.

I've also broken up the videos into several parts, so that it's easier to skip certain sections if you're already half way through your build. As more questions come in, hopefully I will be able to add more and more useful content and refine each of the build instructions.

build gimbal  build came 700 3 axis gimbal  install gimbal joystick  default

In order to keep all of the questions, comments, answers, and other information centralized, i've set up a separate page for the videos and articles at http://gimbal.cheesycam.com.

gimbal cheesycam came 7000 build 3 axis DIY brushless
DIY Build Info 3 Axis Gimbal - visit Gimbal.Cheesycam.com

 58 Comments





58 thoughts on “DIY Build Videos – CAME 7000 3 Axis Gimbal Stabilizer

  1. Derrick

    @Emm - it is the DYS HHG5D and I bought the AlexMos separate from the gimbal from rctimer. I have calibrated both sensors and double checked their top/right setup in the config. The camera and frame sensors are mounted the same place as the CAME camera and frame sensors are mounted. Using some spare parts, I fashioned an almost identical mount for the frame.

    For the frame sensor, I specified "Below YAW + PID source", which I think I'm going try turning off to see the jerkiness goes away any. Just seems odd as the pitch and roll move very smoothly.

  2. Emm

    Post author

    @Derrick - Yes you should try to do the calibration, but also you should double check the position of your sensor. I don't know which gimbal you are using, but make sure it's placed close to the middle of the camera frame. Putting it too much to one side may not read horizontal perfectly.

  3. Derrick

    Thank you for the helpful videos on PID tuning and balancing. I have a cube level and I don't know what I'd ever do without that thing now.

    I'm having a strange issue, though - I have the AlexMos 32-bit controller configured and hooked up to an RC receiver, running to my 14SG transmitter. I'm noticing that everything is smooth except for my Yaw motor. When I turn left or right with the remote, the movement is incredibly jerky. I've tried changing up my PID settings, tried adjusting the speed, trim, rates - everything. Just wondering if you think it could be a bad motor or something more obvious?

  4. Emm

    Post author

    @William Feemster - Apparently CAME-TV may be shipping units out with the latest firmware upgrade. The profiles will be different so figure out which profile you have. These should be the profiles that are installed when the units are shipped.

    7500 2.40 Firmware Profiles: http://goo.gl/VAyUw9
    7500 2.41 B4 Firmware Profiles: http://goo.gl/kujJO4

    Just because the PID settings can be imported, I would still double check if the motors are inverted and the sensors are in the correct Top and Right position (both Camera IMU and Frame IMU).

  5. Emm

    Post author

    @Tracy Evans - That's called a Deans connector, typical in RC Hobby stores. I purchased several of these: http://www.amazon.com/Venom-4000mAh-Battery-Universal-System/dp/B000W7WWFW/.

    Great batteries and it comes with universal end plugs so you can adapt the battery to just about anything. I would suggest getting a balanced charger though it will speed things up and keep your batteries maintained well. I have this one which has been working great and works with my DJI Phantom Quadcopter V1 http://www.amazon.com/Tenergy-TB6AC-Power-Balancing-Charger/dp/B00466LEMC/

  6. @Aaron Which batteries did you get? Did they have the same connection plug, or id you have to change that? I haven't seen any batteries with the same horizontal/vertical blade connection.

  7. Aaron

    I've realized the battery/charger that comes with it are complete garbage. Mine crapped out within 2 days. I ordered a couple of Venom batteries and it's night and day difference.

  8. Emm

    Post author

    @William - That is normal if you have follow mode on. You are forcing the camera off axis a certain degree and it follows the direction. You can go into follow mode and change the degree of deviation from center.

  9. William

    Hi Aaron and Emm,

    I have the same problem with mine. The yaw would stay centered with a slight bump but a push would send it into a drift. I since gave it to my business partner to see what he could do with it. If you find the solution please post it. We will do like wise... or if Emm beats use to the punch that woul be great too.

    William in Seattle

  10. Aaron

    @Emm I have no input set to YAW on RC. I even tried no input on everything. When flying its not a huge deal bc i just turn the handlebars a bit. It would be nice to figure out the problem though. Thanks for all your suggestions!

  11. Emm

    Post author

    @Aaron - Sorry I couldn't see what was going on off camera. I actually can't tell that's even drifting. When you turn the unit on, it looks like it's centering itself (according to your sensor calibration).

    I couldn't see it, but if you are experiencing 'drift', it's because the motors may be getting some type of input. Think of the joystick sending a slow command to pan the camera. So perhaps try disabling any joystick input in 'RC Setting' to the YAW. Change it to 'no input' and then test it again. See if it is still drifting. If it is not drifting then you have to figure out why the joystick is sending commands without you touching it.

    It's a bit technical but when you tell the software you have a joystick, it expects to see 1.6V (or something) at the joystick input on the control board when the joystick is sitting in neutral. If it sees 3V then it moves the motors in one direction and when it sees 0 Volts it moves in the opposite direction. So you can imagine if you have a joystick input setting for YAW and the the control board sees 2 volts or perhaps 1 volt it will start moving the motor around.

    Just for reference for others, if you DON'T have a joystick installed and you set an input in RC Settings the camera will automatically tilt or pan. The reason is because there is nothing connected and the board is sitting at 0 Volts. It expects that neutral is 1.6V (or something) in the middle. It's a bit confusing and I was planning on doing a video about this for troubleshooting soon.

  12. Aaron

    @Emm. The beep was me turning the motor on from the software. Is it normally silent when turning on the motor through USB?

  13. Emm

    Post author

    @Aaron - That beep sounds like when you press the joystick for loading a new profile. Try moving the joystick around to make sure it is not stuck. Also try going in to the software and go to the service settings. Change the One Click option to nothing. See if that changes anything. It sounds like a joystick problem with the Service Mode.

  14. Aaron

    @Emm, I've uploaded a video showing the problem that I cannot figure out how to fix. When I power on the motors the YAW shifts to the left, and then slowly keeps drifting. Any ideas?

    https://vimeo.com/100590102

    password: drift

  15. Emm

    Post author

    @Tracy Evans - I'm not familiar with that type of response from the gimbals. Just a really quick question, but do you know for sure that your battery is charged up? For some settings if the battery is below just 1V from full power it will disable itself. Have you charged the battery completely?

  16. My CAME 7500 worked for about 5 minutes, then freaked. I can't connect the calibration software and can not flash the firmware. It is non-functional.

    Here are a couple of threads (with pics and video) on it at the BASECAMP forum. Any advice would be appreciated.

    http://forum.basecamelectronics.com/index.php?p=/discussion/1010/unable-to-flash-firmware#Item_2

    http://forum.basecamelectronics.com/index.php?p=/discussion/1009/came-7500-problems-with-videos-showing-problems#Item_1

  17. Aaron

    I've got it pretty stable by watching your calibration video. Only problem now is that the YAW slowly drifts to the left.

  18. Aaron

    Okay. I was watching the Came 7500 tutorial where the guy with a white beard said it should stay in place even after rolling.
    When I power it on it goes a little crazy and starts spinning. Any idea why that is happening?

  19. Emm

    Post author

    @Aaron - Looks good to me. The roll wont stay in place, just the pitch. How does it fly?

  20. Aaron

    Hi Emm, Thanks for all of the tutorials.
    I have the Came 7500, and everything is working okay except the ROLL. I've balanced it to where it falls perfectly flat to horizon. However if I rotate it will not stay in place. Any suggestions?

  21. Noah

    I can't get my gimble to communicate with my computer. I have a Mac.
    So, I downloaded the program that unzip the files that the gimbal needs in order to communicate with the computer. No luck.

  22. Emm

    Post author

    @Will Burke - No you don't need the joystick installed, just make sure in rc settings you have everything as 'no input'. If you can't calibrate the second IMU make sure you don't have it disabled in the advanced menu. Enable it and choose under YAW.

  23. Will Burke

    Hi Emm, Fantastic Website!

    Can I throw a dumb question at you..

    The 32bit version of Came-7000 comes with a joystick, do I have to install it?

    I didn't and am now at the calibration stage. However the software wont let me click the second frame IMF, after I have calibrated the first camera IMF..

    The only thing I did different was not install the joystick so...
    Will

  24. I've been using my gimbal with a pocket cam and its been great my problem is transport and the size for the camera I am using. I did some hunting and came across this guy who 3D printed his own gimbal frame which is small light and compact also has thumb screw adjustments and has motor covers which is a bonus.

    I downloaded the 3D files and modified them to use 15mm rod on the top, I got a quote for it from a 3D print shot £300 which is not bad. This will be a cool little side project to keep me occupied

    http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1861759&page=26

    http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1861759&page=27

  25. Emm

    Post author

    @Keith Moreau - Maybe they've mentioned it, but they will have an 8000 version out for larger cameras, so you might want to wait for that. Also about your HDMI connection, I secure the HDMI cable to one of the brackets with a tie strap and making sure it has enough room to not tangle up. Try to use the thinnest, lightest, and most flexible cable possible. They cost more money but well worth it to use on a Gimbal.

    Here's the one I purchased and really love the cable: Ultra Thin Flexible HDMI Cables


    Ultra Thin Lightweight HDMI Video Cables

  26. I would imagine with the HDMI connectors on the camera, particularly the mini and micro connectors, the constant movement of the gimbal while operating would pose a hazard to the connection. Even without touching these connectors they are sometimes flaky. Do you have something to secure the camera end of the connector or is it not a problem?

    BTW I did have some communication with CAME and they are not crazy about using the FS700. I think they just don't want to support something they haven't built the unit for. I'll see how it all works with the supported cameras first and then see.

  27. Emm

    Post author

    @Keith Moreau - I actually have several cables running to my camera, but I purchased the thinnest lightest ones available. I have a very very flexible thin lightweight HDMI cable which I love for my gimbal to LCD monitor.

  28. I'm not purchasing it only for the FS700, that would be a bonus if I could get it to work. I have a 5D and a GH4, which I know this was designed for. After I get those working well I may endeavor to get the FS700 working. That is if Convergent Designs ever comes out with the Odyssey Prores 4K update! Another question Emm, do you have experience using a gimbal wired to an external recorder? Does the attached cable mess everything up or is it doable? This also goes for external monitoring, I would imagine this would be helpful to have a big monitor on the handles.

  29. Emm

    Post author

    @Keith Moreau - Well hopefully you have a good experience with purchasing this product, but it does seem you are attempting something the product was not originally designed for. Good luck with getting it working though, I'm sure other FS700 users would love to see that happen.

  30. Emm

    Post author

    @Southerndude - I don't really use it, don't find the need for it. But I can try later.

  31. Hi Emm, yes it looks like to put the center of gravity on the FS700 it may extend too far back and hit the back of the cradle, but I"m thinking with some adjustable longer bars that go to the tilt axle that CG could be moved. They have adjustments in a few places for the rest of the frame for these type of adjustments. I'm in slight communication with CAME about it. I can post my findings when I know more. They said I should get it in a week, it seems stuff from China comes pretty quickly, but to be honest this is the most expensive item I've bought from China, so I'm slightly apprehensive. Thanks again for all the info and advice!

    -Keith

  32. Emm: Just curious, were you ever able to mount the top bracket of the gimble cage to the GH3 or GH4's hotshoe?

    I never could get that to fit because of the cage being too tall.

  33. Emm

    Post author

    @Keith Moreau - The motors are strong, but it's the frame that will limit the placement of the camera. If you don't have enough forward/back/left/right/up/down adjustment in the frame to get that camera balanced, then the gimbal performance will not be very good. For any gimbal you have to have the camera balanced first.

  34. Thanks Emm, I just ordered one. The Came-tv video indicates it can work with a 2kg load? That's pretty good. And more than a FS700. I have a FS700 and Odyssey 7Q, wondering if I can have the recorder off the gimbal with a SDI cable to the Odyssey off the gimbal (like mounted to the handle or something). What's your feeling on this? I was mostly thinking of mounting my GH4 and 5Dm3 but if I can do the FS700 that would be a bonus. Thanks for all you do!

  35. Emm

    Post author

    @LB - This might be close: http://cheesycam.com/diy-build-32-bit-version-came-7000-3-axis-burshless-motor-gimbal-stabilizer/#comment-278915

    Keep in mind that my motors may be inverted and yours not. Also the position of my sensors, and double check the joystick settings. PID settings are useful, but sometimes the profile could have some areas that are not exactly the same as your assembly. Take a look at my 'Basic PID Tuning' video to get familiar with what could be different: http://gimbal.cheesycam.com/diy-build-came-7000-32-bit-3-axis-gimbal-stabilizer/

  36. Emm

    Post author

    @Keith Moreau - Hmm no guarantees but some people have received it in about a week. Even though they can ship quick, anything that comes internationally can get slowed down in Customs.

  37. LB

    @EMM Do you have a PID for the GH4 12-35MM I can try using and tweaking I pretty comfortable with it just want a starting point from someone that has it already.

  38. Emm

    Post author

    @Southerndude - You're right about the 8 bit and a lighter camera, it was difficult to get it working correctly. I personally know how frustrating it was trying to put one together, and that's why I created the (sub)site.

    The 32 bit 7000/7500 works great with a GH4, but it is a bit large for such small cameras when traveling. When a Gimbal is broken down into pieces there isn't much to a gimbal. Frame, Controller, Sensors, Motors, Battery.

    I'm a bit more confident now and my next build will be a super compact version using parts from many different companies. I may have to custom make a few parts, but I think i'll be able to get something really compact for my smaller cameras like the BMPCC and GH4.

  39. Emm: Man, I guess I should have waited a while before I sent my Came7000 back. I never could get it balanced with a GH3 and a 12-35mm lens. I had it about 6 weeks and just got tired and frustrated with it, I had such high hopes. If they would have communicated with me about other options like a new 32 Board and PID profiles and the better Joystick I would have kept it. Now I have spent the cost to return of $135.00 plus the online purchase of utility boxes, Total cost of about, $165.00 almost the cost of the difference of the Came7500.

    I will say this, Came-TV was good at taking it back, well past there stated return time. But communications was slow and you can tell that they must be swamped with emails as what answers they did give were a lot of times, short and incorrect, almost like they weren't reading, or understanding the emails.

    My hats off to you Emm, for all the work you have put into this project, for all you new comers and anyone thinking about getting a Came7000 or 7500 stabilizer, What Emm has done here with the videos and support is phenomenal.

    Maybe some day I'll try it again, maybe the price will be down, and the interface easier to understand.

    Southerndude

  40. Emm

    Post author

    @Jansen - If you are using a board with compatible firmware you can import the PID directly. Though if it is a different gimbal the settings may not be the best. I suggest doing it from scratch.

    First make sure you save and backup every profile before you attempt any changes in case you want to go backwards. Take a screen shot of every tab just in case. Then start your PID from zero and do one axis at a time. I have a basic video that sort of explains how to walk through the steps http://gimbal.cheesycam.com

  41. Jansen

    Emm, just a question about PIDs, I assume this stabilizer is using the Alexmos board/program. Say I have bought a customized built gimbal that is bigger and has more powerful motors, can I still use these PIDs on that gimbal even though it's a different gimbal but using the same software?

  42. Thanks for the review. Very close to pulling the trigger on the 7500 model. Have you any great/affordable Wireless FF advice? Looking at the Wondlan unit for $550. Ya think a WFF fly happily with the CAME rigs?

    Thanks... B.

  43. Emm

    Post author

    @Dez - I'm using a Folding gimbal stand from eBay. Probably not the greatest, but works. It will most likely scratch your handles though. I think I may rebuild one out of a softer more blunt material like wood.


    Folding Gimbal Stand

    I have not found a suitable 'cheap' case yet. Of course there are some very large Pelican style cases, but it seems a bit overkill. These gimbals are pretty lightweight so I don't want to travel with a large case. They are just odd sized, so I have to find a way that works for me.

  44. Dez

    @Emm Greatly appreciate these how to videos 🙂 My question is can you provide a link to the stand you're using. And also have you found a case for the gimbal as of yet?

    Thanks in advance,

    Dez

  45. Emm

    Post author

    @Renato Murilo Langona - CAME is starting to load profiles on the controllers before shipping them out so you don't need to do this. Glad it worked out, but eventually you may need to learn how to create a PID from scratch in case you start changing the weight or camera type or if you need to troubleshoot when something isn't working properly.

  46. Thank you very much, Emm!!

    Strangely, my CAME 7000 with 8-bit board (32 is on its way) worked for me without any changes. I balanced it and when I turned it on to test the motors, the thing just worked like a charm and incredibly smooth, so I didn't touch the PID settings yet. I'm using it with a Panasonic GH2 + SLR Magic 12mm lens and a SIMA Quickonnect.

    Anyway, thanks for those videos, they will help a lot of guys wanting to use this great stab tool!

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