CAMETV 7500 with GH4 + Rokinon Fisheye Lens

A few weeks ago I showed both the CAME-TV 7800 and only a short glimpse of the 7500. The 7800 is ready to go out of the box, while the 7500 needs a bit of assembly. I finally had time last night to put it together and set it up for my GH4 with Rokinon Fisheye Lens.

A video posted by Emm (@mrcheesycam) on

The camera and lens combo i'm using was too light and didn't sit far enough forward. I needed to add a QR base plate system to add more weight and allow the camera to be pushed more forward. Because of the plate I had to remove the top bar and relocate the Camera IMU sensor. After recalibrating the sensors and balancing the camera, she seems to be responding really well.

CAME-TV 7800 3 Axis Gimbal Stabilizer
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18 thoughts on “CAMETV 7500 with GH4 + Rokinon Fisheye Lens

  1. Emm

    Post author

    @Petter Sand - Yeah to prevent tangling you have to run it through the hollow shaft of the motors. I am not sure about if the connector can be removed though. If I really had to do it, I would probably cut and re-solder the wire itself and not mess with the connection part.

  2. Hi Emm! Now things look better. I resetted to default and auto configured PID´s and that seemed to do the trick. Also i downgraded FW to 2.42.B6 which was a tip from Came. I still have the need to get my sensor wires through the roll shaft.
    I can´t remove the white small connector to ran it through but maybe there is a possibility to get new wires. It is the wire from cam IMU to the frame Imu which is the problem. When i put the gimbal upside down the cable gets tangled.
    Can you give me any advice on that?

    Best regards
    Petter

  3. Emm

    Post author

    @Petter Sand - 32 bit and 8 bit are very very different. Also profiles don't always work because you have to detect if your motors are 'inverted' or not.
    First double check the sensor positions top and right.
    Then double check if any of the motors are 'inverted' (manually set the poles).
    Calibrate your sensors by holding the camera level, and do the same when you calibrate Gyro.
    Then start to set your motor power around 180 or so just to start.
    Then go through the steps of configuring your PID settings one axis at a time.

    Try looking through this page to see if there's anything helpful here. http://gimbal.cheesycam.com/diy-build-came-7000-32-bit-3-axis-gimbal-stabilizer/#basicPID

  4. Thanks Again Emm! You were right about the motor not being on the wrong side. How stupid of me. I just turnaround it and shifted top bar to cam bar.
    But i am still getting the same result. Something is seriously wrong. I have tested different profiles. I downloaded your profile for 5d and it is the same thing. I have also tested the profiles included from Basecam electronics.
    What is your opinion what to do next. I have followed all steps in building and calibration in what i am aware of. I provide a link to youtube below for what happens when i connect the power

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RnHLbnCMDTM&feature=youtu.be

    Do you know if there are different motors for the 32 bit and 8 bit versions? Maybe i have the wrong ones.
    Thankful for help. Best regards

  5. Emm

    Post author

    @Sam DeWitt - To balance a camera you have to move it forward and back as well as side to side. Because the lens is so tiny, there is not enough forward weight, and you can't move the camera physically forward without the addition of a sliding plate. On the 7800 you should have not issue, on the 7500 you need to add a sliding plate to move it forward and center the balance. Without it the camera tilts backwards.

  6. Emm

    Post author

    @John - If you want something easier and faster to balance go with the Birdycam because it's easier and faster to balance.

  7. Sam DeWitt

    Thanks so much for all the effort you put into these videos and articles, much appreciated.

    I have ordered a 7800 and was just curious why you felt that the GH4 and that lens were too light?

    It seems the internet is filled with videos and articles showing the GH4 on the Came gimbals with a wide variety of lenses.

    Is that an especially light lens?

    Thanks again

    Sam

  8. John

    Hi Emm,

    I saw that you mentioned that the Birdcam might be easier to set up balance if you need to change lenses.

    In general would you go for the Birdcam2 or Came7800? And why?

  9. Emm

    Post author

    @Petter Sand - On my board, it does not have to be desoldered. The wires can be disconnected by the white terminal plug. It just takes some effort and you have to be careful not to break it.

    Also do you have a CAMETV gimbal? Are you sure about the pitch motor being on the other side? I think you just have to turn it over so the motor is on the other side, and flip the camera cage around too. The system may be configured a certain way and if you change that the sensors will be flipped around and the motors will be 'inverted'. That would take some recalibrating and retuning.

  10. Thanks Emm! You mean soldering to disconnect the sensor right? I guess the white connector which connects the sensor(s) also could be detached like the black connectors? I have mailed base cam regarding connecting the sensors individually. I have another Q, my pitch motor is sitting on the opposite side regarding to yours. Is that ok do you think? It came that way. I have tried to insert some pids but it behaves rather strangely.
    Best regards
    Petter

  11. Emm

    Post author

    @Kirin - If you want something quick to balance when changing out various lenses, you'll probably be looking more towards the Varavon Birdycam2.

  12. Kirin

    Would you still recommend the 7800 for use with a light camera like G6? Or any alternative?

    Also, when you. Want to change lenses, how long does it take you to rebalance and recalibrate?

    I really need a system that allows me to change lenses fairly easily. I'm using a stabilizer now, and it's just too cumbersome to balance every time.

  13. Emm

    Post author

    @Petter Sand - If you are careful, you can disconnect the sensor to run the wires. I don't think you can connect both to the board individually, but I haven't tried that. Right now my camera IMU is sitting next to my camera using double sided tape.

  14. Hi! I would also e glad to use your PID´s. I have a gh4 with 12-35 mm. I also have a question regarding the wiring of the IMU´s on the 32 bit came 7000. I noticed that the cam IMU is connected at the frame IMU and that the frame IMU is then connected on the board. The wire from Cam IMU is not long enough to go through the roll shaft and to be connected at the frame IMU. My Q is: Can you connect the wire from the cam IMU directly on the board? Seems to be a connector available. And also is there a way to detach the White connector so that the wire can be ran through the roll shaft? Best Regards Petter

  15. Arthur

    Would you mind share your PID Settings.
    I have the same Setup with the GH4 and the 7-14 Lens but struggling with the roll axis.

  16. Emm

    Post author

    @krys - I added a QR system to my GH4 setup, but that required me to remove the top bar. If you do the same with a taller camera, you would end up having to do the same and relocating the sensor and recalibrating.

  17. krys

    i'm trying to figure out good work flow from going gimbal to cage/shoulder rig.

    do you know of any good cages that would fit a quick release with camera inside cage? looks like there's no room for QR in a lot of cages

    or

    are you able to add QR below cage with camera onto the gimbal?

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