CAME 7000 3 Axis 32 Bit Gimbal with Canon 5D DSLR Profile

As I continue to fiddle with the new 32 Bit CAME 7000 Gimbal, I spent several hours tweaking the system these past two days until I found some settings that worked best for me. Here's an example of how stable my profile is thus far.

Now that I have this project up and running, I'm comfortable enough to start sharing more of the build process. The first series of videos to be uploaded are just my version of the basic assembly. You don't need to wait on me since coincidentally CAME-TV.com has already uploaded their own version of building this gimbal found at their product page (here).

For those who already have their systems assembled and looking for a good Canon 5D gimbal profile, maybe mine will help you get close as you start out. Remember that balancing your gimbal is the most important thing before you start it up. You can download my CAME 7000 32 Bit Gimbal PID Settings (here).

[NOTE:] CAME-TV.com has provided three different profiles for use with their new 7000 3 Axis Gimbal. I tried the profiles, but ended up just creating my own from scratch. Your results may be different and if you want to give this a go, you can download the new 32-Bit Gimbal Profiles (found here).

 65 Comments





65 thoughts on “CAME 7000 3 Axis 32 Bit Gimbal with Canon 5D DSLR Profile

  1. Emm

    Post author

    @Matt - It's possible your wires are being tangled up in the roll motor area. Try to look at the wires and see if you need to 'unwind' the system by rotating it the opposite direction.

  2. Matt

    I have a question regarding the balancing process..

    I am unable to balance the camera on the roll axis because the roll motor always seems to "snap back" to its original place. It seems as though there is tension building inside of the motor, so when I tilt the camera back and let go, it automatically snaps back (sort of like an elastic) instead of staying in the same place.

    Has anyone else had this problem? Is there an issue with my motor? Can't seem to figure this one out. Any feedback would be appreciated. Thanks!

  3. Emm

    Post author

    @PDMokry - First try to reduce the 'D' settings on the Roll motor.

    Also to note, loading a profile is a good start, but it does not take into account if any of your motors are inverted. The software cannot originally tell which direction you plugged your wires into the motor and the controller. Maybe you have it 'inverted' but did not select that in the software for that particular motor?

    I would suggest watching this video that shows the basic things to setup, sensor position, inverted motors, etc. It also shows you how to tweak the PID settings from scratch so that you can start to customize your own settings. http://gimbal.cheesycam.com/diy-build-came-7000-32-bit-3-axis-gimbal-stabilizer/#basicPID

  4. PDMokry

    Well after leaving the gimbal on the chopping block for a few weeks, i have had a dance to get back to it and here is the issue i spoke of.

    http://youtu.be/kR-5FEQuJwo

    I would love to have this gimbal up and running, it would add a whole new dynamic to my action sports videos. But I'm on the bring of just scrapping it and going back to a Glidecam4000.

    Help!!!! lol

  5. Emm

    Post author

    @Nick Bicanic - Oh and if I wasn't clear about the 'auto' for the motors you do need to have the motors on (not off) to run the check. Double check the position of your IMU sensors Top and Right, and also lower both the 'P' and the 'D' settings.

  6. I tried the AUTO-DETECT method @Emm suggested - and none of the motors were marked "Invert" - whereas in Emm's profile - two of them were.

    I hit write..and the gimbal still went nuts after turning on

    I think I might have to check the axes/recalibrate the IMUs

    Maybe I didn't do them right

  7. Emm

    Post author

    @Lars Ekdahl - The first things to check is in the software. My guess is that your sensors are not configured correctly. Did you correctly choose the 'Top' and 'Right' options for the way your Camera IMU and Frame IMU sensors are mounted? The Camera IMU should be Z (for top) and -X (for right).

    If you have mounted the second Frame IMU with connector facing up, then Y (top) and -X (right).

    Also, do you need to select 'invert' for any of the motors? You can try to balance the gimbal by first connecting with USB only and then choose 'Motors On/Off'. After you change a few settings and then turn motors on and see if it still shakes.

  8. Hello,
    my name is Lars Ekdahl and I live in Sweden a week ago I got my Came-7000 32 bit. gimbal from Hong Kong. I have balanced it well but it shakes frightfully when I connect the battery. Have you any idea what it may be due. Do you have any tips?

    please
    Lars

  9. Luke

    I still can't get the frame IMU calibrated. There is no multiple beep after each calibration. I have tried it 5 times in different ways and still no luck.

  10. Emm

    Post author

    @Luke - Double check you don't have it disabled in the Advanced menu. Regardless of the settings try to change to disabled, hit write, then reboot. Go back enable it, and then hit write.

    Maybe it's just my computer, but just because it has a setting you may have to go back and recreate that setting to make it stick again.

  11. Luke

    @Nick - I had my first sensor calibrated. Now trying to do the second one (frame sensor), which is not working at the moment.

  12. @Luke aha. so you're trying to calibrate the sensor when it's already installed in the gimbal?

    I was going from this - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fNrUNJOb4tY and trying to do it before installation (to make it easier to do all six orientations

    @Emm - will try the auto-detect when I get back to the house.
    Yesterday put the joystick in (as it arrived two days late from CAME)

  13. Luke

    @Nick - I am still Woking on the frame IMU. When you import Emm's profile into your gimbal, before you click write go to the Advanced tab, under sensor change the setting to "none" and click write. Go back to the basic tab and click write and configure the roll, pitch and yaw power until your gimbal stabilize.

  14. Luke

    Yeah, I found out that the wires running near the magnetic motors can distort the signal to the controller board.

  15. Emm

    Post author

    @Luke - I can't remember off the top of my head, but I think it should do the same number of beeps. Double check that the software can see the Frame IMU (move it around). Last night for some reason my software kept losing signal to my IMUs and I had to reboot the software and gimbal to get it working again.

  16. Luke

    Emm,
    Now that I have my gimbal working and stabilized, the only thing is getting the Frame IMU calibrated. I
    first went to the Advanced tab and under Sensor area, I put down "below Yaw" and click write; go back to Basic tab and click "Frame IMU" and entered the "Axis Top" = Y and "RIGHT" = -X. Then I click "CALIB.ACC" for each of the 6 points but only getting 1 beep at the end of each calibration and not the multiple beeps like the first IMU sensor. Is this normal or am I doing it wrong?

  17. Emm

    Post author

    @Nick Bicanic - If you are using my profile, there are a few things that can be different. Your motor wiring could be swapped, so you would have to check if your motors require 'invert' to be selected. Use the 'Auto' button under the motor power settings to detect this. Once the system does it's checks, you should go back and enter the correct 'Poles'. I just shot a video last night, hopefully I can have something up today about entering PID settings from scratch. It's just a basic tutorial but should get you started.

  18. ok so the rig is now modified so I can balance a GH4 and 20mm pancake correctly (required cutting out about 10mm of extra hole on the platform since I the camera needs to be further forwards than possible)

    And not I've statically balanced everything.
    And using emm's profile the rig freaks out when I turn it on.

    The sensors are the same orientation as Emm had it (camera on is on the with cable coming out to the LEFT if you are looking at the camera from behind (as you are holding the rig, frame one is BELOW yaw mounted about halfway between the other brackets with cables coming out upwards)

    I'm gonna try to diagnose things step by step tomorrow - but was wondering if anyone else has tips on sensor calibration.

    Luke/Emm (or anyone else) - did you calibrate the sensors at the same time (e.g. by sticking them both on a square block as recommended by others) to do the 6 point calibration and if you did that did you stick them on with the correct orientation relative to each other (i.e. frame sensor mounted perpendicular to camera sensor) etc?

  19. Emm

    Post author

    @Luke - If you lay the sensor flat on a table, the top of the sensors are always Z axis.

    So if you mount the 'Frame IMU' sensor on the post below the YAW motor, and your 'Z Axis' is facing the same direction as your camera lens, then in the software you would choose -X as your right side and Y as your top.

  20. Luke

    Nick, you are right. I experienced the same problem.

    Emm
    I do have a question for you with calibrating the second IMU sensor, mounted with the orientation top down, below the YAW motor. What do you put in the "Axis TOP" and "RIGHT" within the SimpleBCG Gui?

  21. in case this drives anyone else insane ๐Ÿ˜‰

    I got all the new pieces - and it's easy enough to connect them up (I even reconfigured my gimbal so the tilt motor is on the left (same as Emm's - so the profiles match more closely)

    Unfortunately I got weirdly stuck on sensor calibration.

    The bottom line is that as soon as I try to WRITE a profile to the board I get a red error saying "Accelerometer is not calibrated".

    Regardless of how many times I calibrate it.

    Once I get this error - every time I click CALIB. ACC. the board beeps 12 times slowly, then there's a slight delay - then it beeps ONCE more........and a red message saying "Accelerometer Not Calibrated" appears in the GUI software.

    Now...if I click USE DEFAULTS (and thereby reset the PID settings) - then and only then can I calibrate the IMU.

    So after scratching my head a bit - I recreated Emm's settings from scratch AFTER calibrating my accelerometer manually...very weird.

    anyway - at least it's not freaking out now...now to assemble the final pieces.

    (emm putting up the rest of the videos would be awesome as the CAME videos skip all these steps)

  22. PDMokry

    Wow!!! Iv had all kinds of fun with my Came700. . . or not.

    I can across a ver weird issue with my roll motor. After removing my 5DmkIII and then adding my 6D to the unit, it went crazy. I balanced it perfectly and them the roll motor began to hum and shake. So i decide to unplug it and see if the other motors were acting up. They were fine.

    So i began to cross the connections and started to see if i could eliminate all the things that were working properly.

    Nothing short of bringing the power below 50 would resolve the issue, 4x less than the operating power i had with the 5DmkIII.

    The 5D and ^D have slightly different centers of gravity, so the camera rails were changed thus changing the roll arms also.

    After about 18 hours of messing with it all, i started testing everything on the gimbal until i hit pay dirt. The thumb screw located at the top of the cage was tight. But when i made it somewhat lose, it stopped the motor from freaking out. So it seems that some sort of vibration made its way to the camera accelerometer, through the camera and caused it to freak out.

    Now I'm back to trying to tune it.

    After turning off follow mode and the RC inputs, your profile did not freak out.

    But for some reason the profile that CameTV put on the card, seems to work well.

    Thanks for the tips!

  23. PDMokry

    @Emm

    Thank you so much for the help! I know you are working on a multiple videos explain a lot of the knowledge you have from this gimbal. I know i will watch and like them all!

    Im off to try out the suggestions now.

    Thanks again!

  24. I never connected the joystick..could that be the reason? I'll try the other solutions you suggested.
    Thank you! ๐Ÿ™‚

  25. Emm

    Post author

    @PDMokry - I just suggested this to Marvin, but the first thing I would check is to see If your motors are reversed compared to mine. It might be one axis or all. You can let the software โ€˜autoโ€™ detect the motors for you. It will recognize if anything is inverted, but sometimes the number of poles may show up incorrect so change that setting back. Even after loading my profile, hold the entire system and calibrate the Gyro (make sure the system does not move during this process). Also try using my profile with follow mode disabled, perhaps the way your joystick is wired is different.Outside of that your system looks pretty balanced.

  26. Emm

    Post author

    @Marvin - The first thing I would check is to see If your motors are reversed compared to mine. It might be one axis or all. You can let the software โ€˜autoโ€™ detect the motors for you. It will recognize if anything is inverted, but sometimes the number of poles may show up incorrect so change that setting back. Even after loading my profile, hold the entire system and calibrate the Gyro (make sure the system does not move during this process). Also try using my profile with follow mode disabled, perhaps the way your joystick is wired is different.Outside of that your system looks pretty balanced.

  27. PDMokry

    i have the 32bit ver2.4 b8

    Straight out of the box and with it being balance with my 5DmkIII and 20-35mm Tokina f2.8 it worked great with Tilt and Roll. But there was nothing much happening with Yaw/Pan. The motor works and is set to 14 poles, but just does not function as a follow mode or anything of that sort.

    The Came7000 Profiles make the gimbal just go crazy.

    Your knocks the roll into a 45 degree angle and the pitch knocks the camera pointing straight up.

    My button for mode changes works and engages the system.

    But none of your follow data works.

    I have read and watched many of the informative material out on the web, but i seem to be stumped!

    Here is a link to what it does out of the box:

    https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=602206249877832&set=vb.189227637842364&type=2&theater

    http://youtu.be/KIVODlvXVzs

  28. Hey Emm, I assembled the gimbal and am having a really had time getting it to work as advertised. I've balanced the unit with my 5D mk3 and 16-35, I've calibrated the sensors, when I load your or Came PID configurations, the camera goes haywire...am I doing something wrong? what reasons would it not accept your settings and start the chicken dance?

    Thx!

  29. Emm

    Post author

    @PDMokry - So are you still on the 8 bit version or 32 bit with that joystick?

  30. PDMokry

    Hey there Emm!

    Do you have any info you can share on the joystick? i got the Came7000 kit a few weeks ago and it had the 4 button style controls.

  31. Emm

    Post author

    @Aberracus - That seems like a bit more weight, so I would try my GH4 profile or my latest Canon 5D profile.

  32. Aberracus

    Just see this, thanks man, waiting for the tweaked one (my gimbal comes next week)
    I'm planning to use the gimbal with the gh4 metabones and a Nikon 24, you think your PID would work?

  33. Aberracus

    @Emm, do you got PIDs for the Gh4 with metabones or without with the 32 bits board?

    Thank you for everything man.

  34. PDMokry

    Got it to work! I had to choose "All Files" tab to see it appear.

    Now I'm going to refer to your original blog post with all the links and learn how to use the SimpleBGC better.

    Thank You!

  35. Emm

    Post author

    @PDMokry - You have to launch the software and connect to the Gimbal first. If you are not connected properly to the gimbal, it will not search any of the profiles.

    Once you see your gimbal connected it should display the firmware version. Make sure you are using it with the 32 bit version 2.4 software, and then you should be able to hit 'load' and search for the profiles.

  36. PDMokry

    When i DL the PID file you provided it just comes up as a text file on my MAC. Its not being detected as a profile in SimpleBGC. Now the 3 files that you shared with us from CameTV do get recognized.

    Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

  37. Emm

    Post author

    @Nick Bicanic - I have some older videos on calibrating sensors, running wires, and adding a project box. That's about it right now, but as I mentioned my first series of videos are just assembly. I still have to get into the other stuff.

  38. did you already upload your series of build videos?
    I only see one video in this post - but people are referring to others...are they referring to the CAME ones or am I blind?

  39. Emm

    Post author

    @Dan - By the way, you want to do the Gyro calibration every time you start up the gimbal. Hold the frame where you want it before turning the gimbal on. If you choose the option to 'skip gyro at startup' your system will boot faster and begin working right away, but if your frame angles are off you need to do calibrate gyro again.

    If you disable at startup, you can always add this to the joystick menu - like click five times to calibrate gyro.

  40. Emm

    Post author

    @Dan - Doesn't matter. I typically do the sensors first because at that point I am still assembling the whole system.

  41. Dan

    Thank you Emm, and the gyro calibration too in both sensor? Must be firt IMU and than Gyro or dosnt matter?

  42. Dan

    Can anyone help me, that gyro calibration process must be done before or after the 6point imu calibration? Or its dosent matter?
    The secont sensor on frame below the jaw motor need to do the 6 pont imu and gyro calibration too?

  43. Luke

    Emm, the 32bit gimbal came with 2 sensors. Do you calibrate both on the 6 points? Anyway, I can't wait for your build videos.

  44. Emm

    Post author

    @Renato Murilo Langona - For the 'Motors' the wiring does not need to be exactly the same back to the board. No hard will be done. Possibly they just state this so that their profile will work out of the box. If you somehow get things swapped on the motors, there is an option in the software to select 'inverted' or you can always switch the connections back around.

    In fact, part of my configuration process is to swap the connectors around and i've done this dozens of times. You should take caution with other connections, but the motors are just three pin and doesn't matter which way you have it.

  45. Emm, let me ask you a question. The build videos are very nice, but a little confusing sometimes. The wires that connects the board to the motors, on the updated video, he says the wires must be exactly in the same position each end, but if we see the one that is pre assembled, the wires are "inverted" (the gray and black wires are in opposite sides if you look to the connectors side by side facing the side that has "holes"). Can you tell me which way is the right way? I'm afraid to burn the motors. Thanks!!

  46. Emm

    Post author

    @Pau - In the end I believe we can achieve stable footage from many of the gimbals on the market, but the price difference should be considered on the additional features the Varavon has. Though the controllers and software may be similar, I have looked at many other gimbals and nothing in the Varavon price point offers the same finished build. A tool-less frame, quick release top handle, included stand, carry bag, clean run wiring, etc. There is still a large audience who would prefer something ready-to-run out of the box with these additional conveniences.

  47. Thanks for your answer Emm.
    The difference in price is important... and I think that motors and controler are the same in both gimbals so may be all is perfect calibration (hardware and software):-)

  48. My unit should be here today, I've watched a guy build his and he unscrewed the motors and rotated them so the wire connectors lined up with the pipe just to make it all look neat

  49. Emm

    Post author

    @Cory Wires - My guess is that you're not properly balancing it or tuning up the PID settings. It's really hard to say without actually seeing what's going on. Have you adjusted your Pan Axis as stated in this latest video? Get your camera balanced on the platform, then tilt your system and see if it drops.

  50. Emm

    Post author

    @Pau - My camera is pretty stable, but I was getting a little crazy throwing it around. When you're actually shooting something in real life, you would never handle the camera in that exact fashion.

    If you're not confident to build one, there are the ready-to-run models like the Varavon.

  51. Johnny

    thanks Emm, I'm about to swap my 8bit to 32bit can't wait. I did get 3 PID profiles from Came-Tv that they told me it would work with any cameras, all I have to do is to balance it.

  52. Hey,

    So I purchased and built the orginal came-7000 8-bit. And honestly I'm ready to throw mine in the trash. I can't get it stable enough to be reliable on shoots. I'm shooting with a 5d mkiii with a 28mm Nikkor. Will the 32bit help with that? Or am I just not getting a proper balance?

    Please help

  53. Hello,

    Just curious about the 6:06 time in your video, when you say uppp!... Camera is totally unballanced (horizontal level). Is this normal with this cheap gimbals?. In later article, the Vavaron gimbal is really steady (more than double the price).
    I'm almost buying one from Came, but your video makes me think twice. Are there points to improve, yet?... What do you think?...

    Thank you very much.

  54. Emm

    Post author

    @Nick Bicanic - The profile attached to this article is for the 32 bit version. Inside this profile you'll find speed settings under the Follow Mode tab. Without those settings my YAW was pretty loose, but for some reason increasing that setting made my gimbal more stable.

  55. are you talking about the new profile you provided for 5D or the previous one for GH4 (I have the latter)
    I'm gonna try to configure one profile with follow and one without so I can do joystick overrides...I have the aerial pixels joystick but the new CAME joystick (which btw is different to the older model shipped with 8bit version) looks usable enough

  56. Emm

    Post author

    @Nick Bicanic - On the new 32 Bit software I find my system is more stable with 'Follow Mode' turned on. There is a setting for 'speed'. I ramped that up and my YAW was locked in. That option was not in the 8 bit version, but that seems to have provided me with much more stable YAW. Download my profile, jump over to the Follow Mode tab, and check out my Speed settings for YAW.

  57. come on man - get those videos up ๐Ÿ˜‰
    don't keep us waiting.

    ๐Ÿ˜‰

    To be fair - my 32bit upgrade hasn't arrived yet - but it should be there imminently so I'm keen to get moving. My rig is mechanically very well balanced for roll and pitch - but yaw is kind of random - it feels perfect for a bit - but then it'll just spaz out the next day. seems like fractions of millimeters have a big impact there

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