1000w Fresnel LED Product Overview

Mike Peterson writes in and shares his opinion on those new LED video lights that are being sold online as 1000w LED Fresnels. So far there really hasn't been much complaint over the actual build quality, as they are using the same aluminum housings as the 'As Arri' light kits (seen here) with a high power LED inside. Others have already confirmed these are not equivalent to 1000w, nor is it an actual Fresnel light (no proper glass element), but Mike thinks it's still a great solution for a bright low power / low temp light source. [Thanks Mike]

With most artificial light sources there will often be a green color cast, but can be corrected with a minus green (magenta) filter. The benefit to LED lighting is the ability to plug several at any location without blowing out circuit breakers and generating too much heat in the environment. You can also use low temp colored Gels (cheaper stuff) over the LED lights without the worry of it melting. Something you really need to think about if you're trying to use a few hot Tungsten or Halogen type lights. You can find this exact lighting kit, and other LED Fresnels via eBay (click here).

LED Video Light Fresnel SpotlightLED Fresnel Lighting
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17 thoughts on “1000w Fresnel LED Product Overview

  1. Stanley

    @MikeyMike,

    How was the quality of light, how does it compare w/ Arri Fresnels? Did the zoom actually work, did you get a hard shadows like with traditional Arri Fresnels? What about color tint? Did you have to seriously correct for it? And the colored filters the 3200k and the 5600k, do we have to use those, they sort of look like lenses.

    Wiring and repair, I have no problem with, since I'm good w/ electrical. But what I want to know if it's worth the value being 1/4 the price of units like litepanels sola.

  2. I haven't noticed any flicker at fast shutter speeds. I should warn people that mine went out and I had a frustrating experience finding out there is no where to repair it. I bought a new LED chip and power supply before I determined that it was a problem with the wiring. I was able to repair it myself but buying the parts that I ultimately didn't use cost me about $50 and a lot of frustrating emails. That is the price of dealing with Chinese resellers.

  3. To get rid of this fringe buy the fresnel lens from Coollights.biz for $12 and replace the existing lens. Paint the blue ring that holds the lens with flat black paint and also the circle where the light sits in. The fringe will be totally gone.

  4. Ross Yedinak

    Really nice productive comment there Gary C. A man takes the time to give a pretty informative review on a product and that's what you have to say? Do us a favor and post your picture so we can have our say on what you look like. However, I bet we wouldn't have many comments on that as the majority here are interested in the intended information, not on making fun of others. It may have been a joke, but rather inappropriate and off topic to say the least.

  5. Gary C

    Nice to see that Ogre from "Revenge of the Nerds" is now doing something with his life and making movies 😉

  6. the tungsten insert filter is just a flat plastic piece, the front lens is very thick (I should have shot that from the side in a closeup). There does seem to be light fall off as it's adjusted. There is a very thick lens that is in place where the Fresnel normally would go. I imagine this lens was much cheaper to make.

    I just can't bring myself to pay more than $300 for a LED. I'm a cheapskate. I guess this just fills my need for a single point barndorable light. The multi bulb LEDs can't be used with barndoors as you know.

    There is a pretty dramatic yellow edge to the light but I'm willing to work with that. I hate expensive, hot, power hungry lights... and I think in the DSLR age they are less and less usefull. I also think with so much control over all aspects of the color and everything else with After Effects, the CRI is less of an issue. That's just my oppinion however.

  7. Hi Mike,

    I think it may not have been clear in the video. You showed us the tungsten insert filter but is that also shaped as a lens of sorts and if so does it also come with a clear front element that is also a lens. If so then I would say I may have been premature in my quick thoughts. I think the best way to know would be to do a video showing the actual difference between the light output with it in full spot versus full flood. Also in that test to set exposure with the focus set to spot such that there is detail in the area where the spot is shining. With that set as you adjust the light to flood mode the exposure should fall off as the beam expands.

    The end result of this will either show that , yes the light does truly go from a spot to a flood and if so how much does the intensity change as it does. Now if by chance the fall off is not as dramatic as it should be this still could mean the lens they provide, not being a true fresnel could be limiting the efficiency of the light as it goes from flood to spot.

    I just wanna reasonably priced LED flood/spot is that so wrong, LOL.

    Mark

  8. Mark,
    When I get my hands on an actual Fresnel lens I'm going to drop it in there to test and also to see if it diminishes the green/yellow edge. Unfortunately they are kind of spendy, but I come across them every once in a while. Right now it has a very thick lens which may or may not be contributing to that.

  9. I don't know but that looks like a lot of green tint in what seems to be hitting the wall. I use some minus green on my 900s always but that seems like a lot more green tint than the 900s. I would love to have a functional focusable LED light in my kit. In that regard I am not sure what type of focus these units could be doing if there is not an actual Fresnel lens in the unit. In looking at the video it would appear that this is a standard LED module with 100 Watt output that more than likely has a beam angle of lets say 70-90 degrees. When he adjust the focus and brings the LED module back into the housing instead of focusing the light energy forward I would say it is simply cutting off the wide angle beam and essentially snootting the lamp. This would mean that you are simply losing light power to the inside of the fixture.

    Now I am drawing this conclusion very loosely from what I can see in his video but it just seems like basic optics. If there is nothing there to focus the beam forward then there is no focus going on. As you can see in the video the whole LED module simply moves back into the housing so no magic is going on in the LED module either. Trust me, I would love to be wrong about this but I'm not convinced we have a LED focusable light yet at the price point we can afford.

    That's my two,

    Mark

  10. Looks useful. Currently I'm using the 600 LED wireless models along with an old 500 and 4 z96 lights. Hopefully we get something closer to the Arri models for cheap.

  11. Ryan Orr

    Hmmm...interesting.

    I'm working on improving our lighting in our church, and our cans that are washing our stage are old and outdated, and I'm interested in going LED to get low-voltage performance out of our aging electrical system.

    Anyway, one of the pictures I see on this page shows that these LED light have DMX in/outputs. Is it true? Can they be controlled via DMX? If not, we have dimmers that, right now just reduce voltage to our cans and that's how we adjust brightness. Would a dimmer pack work with these LED lights? I'm aware there may be a shift in color possibly.

    Does anyone know?

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